Some more Castrol answers back for various forums. Interesting read.
1. Im wondering whats the best oil that i should use. Ive got a Nissan 1992 S13 silvia SR20DE with 160k's on the odo. From what ive read in the other thread and been told from people, using an oil with a thicker viscosity is better for the motor and also using non fully synthetic is best. For your engine, our Edge synthetic range will be best.
Which one will depend on the vehicle’s use.
In normal road use, Edge Sport 0W/40 would be ideal.
If you are performing track work, including drifting, the 10W/60 will be preferred, especially if no oil cooler is fitted.
1. Why does Castrol recommend such (what appears to be anyways) a thick oil for the FPV F6 engines. The recommendation is the Edge Sport 10W-60. Everyone seems surprised (even Ford) that such a viscosity is recommended. Surely at this level of thickness, it would be to the detriment of fuel economy and possibly turbo life.Yes I do use this oil in my car... I was more wondering the reasoning behind it considering all other models use a much thinner oil, such as the XR6 Turbo which is essentially the same engine, but recommends the use of a semi-synth 10W/40 or 5W/30?
The F6s are a higher output engine. Being a performance vehicle, the possibility exists that track work might also be done.
The Edge Sport 10W/60 will give that engine more protection under spirited driving.
4. What products suit a 4 stroke ride on lawnmower?Castrol 4T
1. Convert me from Penrite. Also, I will be rebuilding my engine, do yous sell a run in oil? Engine is a 22re
Castrol does not do a running-in oil.The suggestion will be is to use a mineral oil (without any friction modifiers) to allow the engine to bed in properly.
After the bedding in period (3-5 000 kms) depending on what rebuilt has taken place, you may them move to synthetics like Edge Sport 0W/40 or 10W/60.
2. Do you have anything like this:https://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English...duct_Guide.pdf
?Oil specifications can be obtained from our Technical Data Sheets available online Castrol
We also supply a guide that matches the recommended oil to your vehicle. guide
1. Could you please advise which engine oil products meet specification GM-LL-A-025?Castrol SLX Professional LongTec.
This is available in Australia in 20L & 209L containers.
2. I have been using sogui s 6000, and am very disappointed with it for the price. It looked 'dirty' at 3000km, other oils i haved used havent looked 'dirty' till 8 or 9000km what would you recommend instead? Would like to know the make & model of vehicle in question.
Some details like mileage & running conditions will assist in making the best recommendation for you.
3. Do you sell a 10w-40 grade oil? (other member posted link to info) Just wanted to know if you have edge in that viscosity, not really interested in magnatec.Edge Sport 0W/40 is the only SAE 40 engine oil that we have.
It has the same SAE 40 rating that you are after, with a much better cold cranking viscosity of 0W compared to 10W.
Magnatec ( a semi-synthetic product) fits your requirement of 10W/40.
Is there a reasoning why you have not considered Magnatec??
5. is using castrol edge 0w-40 a bit over the top for a N/A 1.8ltr VVT engine? (note it does see some high revs alot!)I think you have answered your own question.
A high revving engine requires an oil that can cope with these extreme running conditions.
Another cost effective option is to use Magnatec (semi-synthetic 10W/40).
We would really want to know more vehicle details to make the best recommendation.
6. What would you reccomend for my 1.4 corsa as its nerly time for the 60k serviceHere in Australia the Corsa is known as the Holden Barina.
Castrol Edge Sport 0W/40 or Castrol Magnatec would be our recommendation.
7. I have been using Castrol Edge 0W-40 for all my previous cars. I currently use 5W-30 for my 1995 Calibra Turbo because of the explicit statement "been tested to withstand scorching turbo temperature". I personally prefer 0W-40, as my experience has been great (less noisy, feels lighter etc), and I assume older cars prefer slightly thicker oil anyway. QUESTION: Is the 0W-40 really "not as good as" 5W-30 when it comes to turbo engines? I want to start using 0W-40 again, but the last thing i want to happen is the more expensive oil is stuffed because of the turbo temp.Edge Sport 0W/40 is every bit as good as the 5W/30.
Both are high performance synthetic oils with differences in viscosity and formal approvals.
I see no reason why the Edge Sport 0W/40 will not work as well as the 5W/30 in the Calibra turbo.
aus jeep offroad
1. do you have a synthetic gear oil (75-90 i think )suitable for 2001 tj wrangler gearbox (nv3550) The GL5 75W/90 specification is related to the 5 speed AX5 transmission.
For the 5 speed MV3550, Chrysler Jeep has specified the you ONLY use “Mopar Manual Transmission Lubricant Part No. 4761526”, 2.3 litres.
Therefore refer back to your dealer for this oil.
1. Ok what I would like to know is the oil I have been using for the last 25 years is apparently not getting imported anymore so what I want to know is what can you suggest as an alternative oil and why, does Castrol have something similar to Penzoil 15W-40 Multi Vis. I along with a lot on this Forum use Penzoil for their cars, could you also advise me if it is true about the importing of said Products. The Pennzoil product is a mineral 15W/40 engine oil meeting API SL/CF.
Castrol GTX 3 15W/40 is our mineral oil meeting a higher performance specification of API SM/CF, ACEA A3/B3.
3. Can you provide technical data reflecting how many km in a small diesel before the oil starts to break down? This will indicate the time frame needed between oil changes? Small diesel being the ones in our 4x4's for a specfic example maybe use Patrol TD42 Engine. And the ZD30 engines too please. Can you do it for Petrol too. Also an oil comparison between Castrol to other brands like Penrite - Pros and consManufacturers handbooks specify oil change periods for each vehicle/engine type. Extending these oil change periods can lead to accelerated engine wear/valve train wear and reduced engine life. My boss uses Castrol Magnatec in his TD 42 at 5000kms service intervals.
6. Used to be a castrol GTX with the old minis and somewhere along the line I changed over to penrite ( the only suspect one they made was the LPG
one) , what would be a reason to change back ?Castrol produces one of the highest quality ranges on engine oils.
It is also the first to update oils to the newest & latest specifications,
whether they be American (API), European (ACEA) or Japanese (JASO).
We also have technical advice on-line at www.castrol.com.au or via a team of helpful technical advisors on ph 1300 557 998, Monday to Friday.
1. which grade of castrol oil is recomended for a 93 prelude that just hit 200,000kms?
Typically a SAE 40 engine oil (ideally Magnatec or GTX 3 15W/40) or a
SAE 50 oil (GTX2 20W/50 or Edge Sport 10W/60) would be recommended.
2. What gearbox oil do you recommend for a 10yrs old box with an lsd? Obviously for a front wheel drive. I'm unsure about the VMX 80.The additive pack we use in Castrol VMX 80 would be fine for the a combined gearbox/fwd lsd setup.
1. somone on here has said that the edge range isnt a true sythetic, and some people have had sludge build up, is there any truth to that or is it all hear say?Edge Sport 5W/30, 0W/40 & 10W/60 are full synthetic oils.
Sludge build-up is usually a result of poor servicing/extended drain intervals, not as a result of base oil type..
2. I found this info on another forum a while back while looking into oils-
"Why are some Synthetic oils more expensive than others?"
"Comes down to the base stocks the oil is made up from and how "diluted" it is.
Castol Edge last time I checked was a hydrocracked oil, also known as group 3 or "fake synthetic".
Mobil 1 is a polyalphaolefin (PAO) based synthetic oil, also known as group 4 or "poor mans synthetic oil" due to it being man made. Stuff like the Motul 300V someone posted above is a polyolester/ester (POE) based synthetic oil, also known as a group 5 oil or "the best you can buy/suitable for jet engines". This stuff costs a fortune, but its still what I exclusively use in my high performance motors. The GTR used to cost me $300 in oil per change every 5000kms.I dont know what Mobil 1 is like these days but it used to be absolute rubbish and break down very easily at moderate temperatures. This lead to many a failed engines, however this was in RB26DETT's, 2JZ-GTE's etc so probably completely unrelated to your question."There is no such thing as the best oil.
The Castrol Edge range is formulated with different base oils to give the best results for the different engines each has been designed for.
You cannot judge the performance of an engine oil by its base stock.
Edge Sport 25W/50 is a mineral oil based on Grp II base stock, as it has been designed for older & larger 2-valve pushrod engines with roller rockers. Synthetics, like Grp IV base oils, do not build up a good film on roller rockers as well as a mineral oil, where valve train forces are very high.
Edge Sport 0W/40 & 10W/60 are synthetic Grp IV products and designed for engines with sliding valve trains or 4 valves or more per cylinder with roller rockers, where valve train loads are lighter than the 2 valve engines and where engine speeds are higher.
Edge Sport 5W/30 is a happy medium utilizing Grp III (HVI) base oils, which provide virtually all of the benefits of Grp IV but at a slightly lower cost.
Whatever works for a jet engine does NOT necessarily work for a car engine, even if it makes a good storyline.
3. Hi there, I have just started running your 10w-60 in my jza80 supra NA-T(urbo). It is primarily a "weekends only" street car that is driven once or twice a month and with a few track days thrown in for good measure. I have typically changed my oil every 5000kms and the oil filter every 10000kms when using mineral oil. What would you suggest is a good interval for changing the 10w-60? Its $100 a bottle here so I want to make sure im not throwing money down the drain so to speak, by draining it too early.
I figured getting the answers straight from the horses mouth would be the best idea.
Extending the oil out further & further to save money could end up in disaster. Draining it earlier is better than draining it too late.
Under more arduous/severe running conditions like you are performing,
more frequent service intervals would always be recommended.
Go with 5 000 km OR 6 months whichever comes first.
The extra money spent upfront will gain you longer engine life, which in turn will save you more money if the long run.